Warren “Batso” Harding

Warren “Batso” Harding has been compared to such legends as Wyatt Earp, but this devilish creature seems to closely resemble a rock climbing version of Hunter S. Thompson (the legendary journalist). This rebellious man is a legend in his own right, so much that climbers tell his tall tales around campfires at night. Nicknamed “Batso” no doubt due to his somewhat nutty attitude and thrill seeking life, Harding is best known for his first ascent of The Nose of El Capitain in Yosemite Valley. In addition to climbing the toughest terrain seeking sheer pleasure, Harding was also known for his love of wine, whether boxed of vintage.

During Harding’s heyday, Yosemite seemed to be beyond conquering. But this crazed man and his team decided that nothing was out of their reach. Harding’s team ingeniously rigged various systems and created various tool while climbing El Capitain in order to make the ascent possible for future climbers. But this wouldn’t be Harding’s only adventure, this man lived to climb no matter what element faced him. Harding’s escapades included facing such severe weather that he nearly froze to death, such hot weather that he nearly had a heart attack, and such steep climbs that he nearly didn’t come out of it alive, but you can bet he always had a bottle of wine ready in his pack just in case. If you’ve ever wondered what possesses people to climb so high in the sky, perhaps Harding’s explanation will help to explain it all: “Following a well-formed fanny up a wall is just marvelous incentive” – perhaps not. Whether he was loved or loathed, this man is a rock climbing legend and no climber today would even venture a toe near Yosemite’s El Capitain if it weren’t for the man who once stated “I’m damn sure not ready to lapse into fuddy-duddyism!” So, climbers keep climbing and remember that this adventurous spirit will always remain somewhere next to you on a cliff holding a bottle of wine and sporting a devilish grin.

Rock Climber – A Different Breed?

There is no doubt that those who decide to climb steep cliffs are in a class all their own -- most people are contented riding roller coasters. What is it, exactly, that sets a rock climber apart from their fellow athletes? Runners, bikers, swimmers, all of these athletes compete in their chosen sport as a test of endurance and speed, but most of all they compete for sheer egotistical pleasure. The very action of tearing into pavement, beating other runners, or breaking through the finish line is what fuels the mine of a marathoner. But rock climbers are an altogether different breed. Most rock climbers do not climb for competitive reasons, they are not hanging onto the side of a cliff in order to conquer the mountain. Rock climbers scale high ledges in order to test themselves. Though they have all the elements and every physical aspect against them, they just keep on climbing.

Physically, the very movement required of rock climbers is a continuous squat. The knees are never straightened while climbing, the arms are always cocked – the climber begins to resemble a frog scaling a tree. This sort of position is an incredible test of endurance and muscular strength. As muscles quiver and joints become sore, the climber has to wonder what they are doing up so high in the first place. Hence, the next element that is against the climber – the mind. Although the body may be willing to move forward, the mind frequently informs the climber that they are taking a large risk – which can be a dangerous thing if the body chooses to listen. It is a scientific fact that the body will largely compensate for the mind’s own fear by releasing adrenaline into the blood stream. Although adrenaline may help the climber, the body will become fatigued faster. Fatigue is the climber’s worst enemy, as the lungs attempt to keep up with the mind, the climber may be facing the problem of seeking out adequate amounts of oxygen. If the air happens to be cold or hot (as it most often is) taking quick breaths of severely hot or cold air can be very dangerous. Which leads us to the last element that climbers must face – the weather. No amount of training can predict or change the weather, so the climber must always be prepared. Mother Nature is a serious force to be reckoned with, and she will play with the climber like a small toy. So, why do these crazed climbers do it? Many things set climbers apart from other athletes, but for most it’s just the sheer love of the game.

Making the Most of Your Natural Energy

Riding to the top of the Empire State Building in an elevator can be overly intimidating for some people—just imagine how it must feel to be hundreds of feet in the air completely reliant on your own will power. Well, that is exactly what climbers do every day. They rely upon themselves to get in and out of any situation, but what happens when you start to doubt yourself? What happens when you suddenly begin to feel weak? Hopefully, you aren’t in a sticky climbing situation when this feeling hits you, but it is a feeling experienced by any sort of athlete. This feeling of fatigue is not exclusive to any sport, but when you are climbing your own natural energy may be the only thing that can save you.

Since your body can only produce a certain amount of strength, your mind must make up for the lack portion. So, if you find yourself high above the earth floor and feeling a little weak, look to your mind to get you through it. The power of the mind is something often underestimated, but believe it or not, your own will power is stronger than you think. When you start to feel slightly worn out, make sure you stay calm, talk yourself through it in a positive way, and don’t forget that the situation you are in can’t be changed, so make the best of it. Try to remember why you decided to scale that cliff wall in the first place. Chances are, you like the feeling of being alone and depending upon yourself, so enjoy the time that you are spending doing what you love. And when you start to feel like you are losing a bit of energy, remember to breathe. After all, you got yourself up there, you can get yourself down.

Madagascar’s Magistrate

The natural beauty that surrounds Madagascar’s Islands has attracted tourists and sports enthusiasts for generations. The limestone crags and magnificent sea cliffs that surround the island have beckoned to climbers for years. There is no limit to the amount of climbing that any serious thrill seeker will find while visiting Madagascar’s Islands and no veteran climber knows this land better than Gilles Gautier.

Although Guatier’s first love lies with scaling icy walls and rugged cliffs, his other love is the environment. It seems to make perfect sense: Gautier understands that in order for his wondrous playground to stay in tact, he must protect it. So, Gautier has taken the protection of the Madagascar Islands into his own hands. This French climber has decided to create forest preservation programs in order to help replenish the earth that already gave so generously to his beloved sport. Gautier has successfully headed up a campaign to plant over 4,000 trees throughout the villages surrounding his rocky crags. This is also a largely humanitarian effort, as these trees will provide future resources to locals that are currently dependent upon the existing forests. Gautier also understands the importance of education, and he has organized a “restoration festival” which aims at educating the locals on forest preservation and restoration. Gautier is really leading the way in preserving Madagascar’s forests, and as long as this man continues to climb the great crags and ocean cliffs of Madagascar, he will continue to protect the land that offers itself to him.

New Route Development at Castle Crags

Castle Crags State Park in California has been a much coveted retreat for nature lovers and hikers alike for many generations. Not only does the park offer visitors breath taking views all around of Mount Shasta, but visitors will also find fishing and swimming in abundance via the Sacramento River that runs through the park grounds. But this park is more than just your average vacation spot; it is a climber’s paradise. The park boasts twenty-eight miles of hiking trails. Additionally, The Pacific Crest Trail happens to pass through the park and a 2.7 miles trail that leads to Castle Crags Wilderness is accessible inside of the park walls. Perhaps the most impressive feature of this park (and the reason behind its name) is the 6,000 foot tall crags that beckon to climbers with reflective, glacier tops. This park is a playground, and climbers across the world congregate here to see just how intimidating nature can be.

Although veteran climbers have been happily scaling the icy crags for years, a younger generation of thrill seekers is forever looking for more way to challenge themselves. Though the 1980s and 1990s saw great improvements in climbing routes, this new route really pushes the boundaries. Recently, the crags saw the addition of the “Marbelous,” a 115’ route of marbled granite that lies within the Marble Gully (a route climbers have been eyeing since they first came to this state park). The Marbelous challenges climbers with discontinuous cracks and boulder cruxes. This new route through the crags was meant to be a challenge, and it is sure to be an instant hit with climber of all levels.

Parkour: A Different Breed of Climbing

An extreme sport has emerged in popularity that incorporates many of the techniques and facets of rock climbing. That sport is Parkour. Parkour is a French word, and the sport comes from French origins.

Parkour was started not too long ago by Sebastien Foucan and David Belle. Foucan started it based on his interests in free running. Free running is an activity where competitors try to pass obstacles in the most efficient way possible. Belle brought his interests in martial arts and gymnastics to the table. Parkour is now becoming very popular among young people in the U.S.

The sport involves finding ways to climb over and maneuver around obstacles as quickly and efficiently as possible. Various rock climbing techniques can be effectively used because there are many rock climbing style walls to climb over. The game can be played either in urban or rural environments. Parker players are known as being called traceurs if male, and traceuses if female.

Overall it is a difficult sport to describe, as it incorporates many types of activities and techniques. Success requires as much mental technique as physical as well. But the basic goal is a simple one, move from point A to point B in the best way possible.

Part of the popularity has been due to the internet, where videos of Parkour have popped up on Youtube, where the videos have been watched hundreds of thousands of times. The internet has also been beneficial in allowing Parkour players to come together to discuss it.

Indoor Climbing: A Great Way to Get Started

There are many types of rock climbing these days, with the most common being free climbing and aid climbing. There are many other styles of climbing as well, however, including indoor climbing.

Indoor climbing is actually growing in popularity. Indoor climbing is done on and in artificial structures in an attempt to recreate the experience of rock climbing in the great outdoors. Why indoor rock climb? Well, for one thing there is the convenience factor. People don’t have the time to drive out into the wilderness every day to climb. So if the itch to climb hits you, an indoor climbing environment is likely close by.

It is also very safe due to it being in a controlled environment. Rock climbing is one of the most dangerous sports out there, so safety can be a huge factor. It is also a great place to learn how to rock climb while in a safe environment. It can help prepare you for the techniques and rigors needed for outdoor climbing. It is also a great place for an experienced climber to hone their craft.

One reason for indoor climbing’s rise in popularity is due to the growth of climbing’s popularity in extreme climates. If you are in an area, for example, where it rains a lot, climbing can be difficult. So indoor climbing is a great option in such a situation. Indoor climbing has also helped to increase interest in the sport of rock climbing in general just due to how convenient indoor rock climbing has made the sport.

Your Guide to Aid Climbing

Aid climbing is one of the two main types of rock climbing, along with free climbing. Aid climbing is also the less common form of the sport. Aid climbing is the type of climbing that allows you to use devices to help you ascent.

This is opposed to free climbing which doesn’t allow you to use any equipment to help you climb. In free climbing the equipment is just for safety purposes. In aid climbing you are allowed to use ropes and other equipment to help you climb, and this includes devices you can stand on to help in your upward progress.

Someone who is aid climbing doesn’t need to be quite as physically fit since the focus isn’t on strength or endurance as much as it is with technical skill. That doesn’t mean aid climbing is easy, however. Many times aid climbing is only used on extremely difficult terrain, and otherwise the climber may free climb.

While free climbing is the most popular style now, aid climbing was very common until the 1960s. This is because techniques and gear improved enough to allow climbers to try and free climb more. Eventually many hardcore climbers started to talk badly about aid climbing. Many areas that used to be aid climbed by necessity are now free climbed due to the advance in technique and technology over the years.

Aid climbing still has its fans though. Aid climbers are able to climb in places that free climbers simply wouldn’t be able to go.

Your Guide to Free Climbing

There are two main types of rock climbing and aid climbing. Free climbing is the most popular and common type of rock climbing. Basically free climbing means that while climbing you don’t use any artificial aids to help you climb. To climb you only use your body such as your hands and feet.

When free climbing you are allowed to use equipment, but they are mainly for safety purposes and aren’t meant to help you in your ascent. Aid climbing, on the other hand, allows for you to use equipment to help you climb. There are many styles of free climbing, which can include traditional climbing, free soloing, sport climbing, and bouldering.

Free soloing is when no rope or other protective gear is used. It is definitely the most dangerous way to climb and is not recommended unless you are an expert. If you make a mistake and fall when free soloing the results can be fatal.

There are many rules involved in free climbing. The goal when free climbing is to make your climb as if the rope isn’t there, and you are supposed to succeed on your first try. This means that you can’t inspect the climbing route before starting. You also aren’t allowed to take a rest by using your rope, among several other things.

Most of the things that are prohibited by the rules end up needing to be used, and that is fine. You can’t always succeed without the help of equipment and other things on the first try. But remember to use these things as a last resort.

Extreme Engineering Launches New Website

Most people love to get out into the country to rock climb whenever they get the chance. Unfortunately, we don’t always have the time to get out there, and that is why another great climbing option is climbing walls. One of the leading rock climbing wall manufacturers, Extreme Engineering, has recently launched their new website.

Extreme Engineering, which bills itself as the industry leader in rock climbing walls, has a new site that is better designed and more easy to navigate than the old site. Extreme Engineering originally created the mobile climbing wall and auto-belay system. They are known for their innovative product designs and have an impressive client list including Universal Studios, the U.S. Military, and many other prominent companies worldwide.

Extreme Engineering builds their climbing systems with new polymer technology, creating a much more realistic climbing experience. They are well built so will hold up no matter what. They also have a new product, called the Mobile 2 Climber which are very low priced compared to other walls on the market. The new Mobile 2 Climbers are lightweight and don’t take up much space. They allow anyone regardless of ability to easily try their hand at climbing even if they aren’t an expert.

Extreme Engineering is very happy to launch their new website as it will give the public a better insight into what their company has to offer the rock climbing enthusiast. All of their adventure systems are designed to be fun and safe for every level of climber.

Avalanche! How Not to Get Caught in One

Safety is very important if you plan to rock climb. Rock climbing is a very thrilling sport, and one of the reasons for this is the potential danger. Since it is a dangerous sport you need to make sure that you know your limitations as a climber so that you don’t get into trouble, and make sure that you are well trained and prepared for potential safety hazards along the way.

One of the biggest dangers in climbing is avalanches. Of course it’s no issue if you aren’t climbing in a snowy area, but if you are, there are things you need to know to keep yourself safe.

The first thing you need to learn is the avalanche triangle. When the three points of the triangle are present, you have yourself an avalanche hazard. The three points are the avalanche terrain, unstable snow, and people. If you see the first two points, you don’t want to introduce yourself or other people to the equation or you are asking for trouble.

The two types of avalanches are point release and slab. Point release avalanches start when a small snowball or rock falls and rolls down and gathers more snow and gets bigger. The slab avalanche occurs when large chunks of snow slide down the slope as slabs or plates. The slab avalanche is the more dangerous type of avalanche.

There is an avalanche scale that indicates the size of an avalanche. The scale ranges from class one, which is the smallest, to class five, which is the largest. Class five avalanches have been known to bury entire towns.

Your Guide to Climbing Grades

As rock climbing developed as a sport a need grew to be able to know the difficulty level of different climbing areas. This has led to the creation of many different grading systems. Different regions and countries have different grading systems, including the U.S.

The basic reason for these grading systems is to let climbers within a climbing community know the difficulty of a particular climb. The more a climb has been ascended, the more accurate you can expect a grade to be. So if you are heading to an area that is a very popular climbing spot, you can know that the grade will be very accurate so you can be sure of what to expect.

It is very important as a climber to know your strengths and weaknesses, as well as your limitations. So you should always check these grades and not attempt climbs that you know you aren’t ready for. Climbing can be dangerous so you should do what you can to make the thrilling experience as safe as possible.

There are a few things that grading systems take into account when assessing a grade. One is the technical difficulty of the hardest move on the climb. The second is how much stamina a climber will need on that route, while the third takes into account how dangerous the climb is. In other words, if a mistake is made, what chance will there be of injury during the climb. In the U.S. the grading system most often used is called the Yosemite Decimal system with a scale that goes from 5.0 to 5.15.

The History of Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is a sport that seems to be getting more popular as times goes on. Many people want to know why someone should get into rock climbing. Well, there are many great reasons to rock climb, but the main reason is that it can be a lot of fun.

Rock climbing is challenging. People love a challenge, and there aren’t many activities more challenging than rock climbing. It can also be quite dangerous, and this makes climbing quite a rush. If you are in shape and getting into shape, there is no better way to get a physically demanding workout than with rock climbing.

Rock climbing also gets you out and about. If you are tired of hanging around the house or the city, get out and rock climb! If you have any sense of adventure than you will enjoy rock climbing. You can travel the great outdoors exploring and looking for new rock climbing challenges. And one thing is for sure, you will never run out of challenges to find in the world of rock climbing. And there is no bigger thrill then when you defeat a climbing challenge and are at the peak of your destination with a great 360 degree view of the world, with you on top.

While rock climbing can be dangerous, there are few activities that are more thrilling. The key is to train and have yourself well prepared, and to know your limitations as a climber. As long as you do that, you will stay safe and have a lot of fun.

Why Rock Climbing?

Rock climbing is a sport that seems to be getting more popular as times goes on. Many people want to know why someone should get into rock climbing. Well, there are many great reasons to rock climb, but the main reason is that it can be a lot of fun.

Rock climbing is challenging. People love a challenge, and there aren’t many activities more challenging than rock climbing. It can also be quite dangerous, and this makes climbing quite a rush. If you are in shape and getting into shape, there is no better way to get a physically demanding workout than with rock climbing.

Rock climbing also gets you out and about. If you are tired of hanging around the house or the city, get out and rock climb! If you have any sense of adventure than you will enjoy rock climbing. You can travel the great outdoors exploring and looking for new rock climbing challenges. And one thing is for sure, you will never run out of challenges to find in the world of rock climbing. And there is no bigger thrill then when you defeat a climbing challenge and are at the peak of your destination with a great 360 degree view of the world, with you on top.

While rock climbing can be dangerous, there are few activities that are more thrilling. The key is to train and have yourself well prepared, and to know your limitations as a climber. As long as you do that, you will stay safe and have a lot of fun.

John Bachar

John Bachar is an American free solo rock climber who grew up in Los Angeles. He initially went to UCLA but dropped out to become a full-time rock climber. It wasn’t long before he became one of the best climbers in the world.

He is known as one of the most physically fit climbers which allowed him to outperform most other climbers. He has always been into physical training and nutrition. He was also known to even bring exercise equipment with him on his climbs which he used at his camp.

He is also known as being supremely confident in his free soloing ability. He once climbed up the 500 foot face of a cliff at Tuolumne Meadows protected by only nine bolts. In 1986 he climbed El Capitan and Half Dome, and ended up climbing one vertical mile in less than fourteen hours. Bachar was also critical of many popular climbing techniques such as bolting on a rappel.

Bachar lives in Mammoth Lakes, Calif. and is Director of Design of Acopa International, a rock climbing shoe manufacturer. On August 13, 2006 at 7:25 p.m. on that date the 49 year-old was in a serious car accident. He was driving southbound on U.S. Route 93 when his car drifted off the road and hit a mile-marker sign.

He then overcorrected and began a rollover. Bachar was injured, fracturing vertebrae, while one of his two passengers was ejected and pronounced dead at the scene. That passenger was Steve Karafa who was Acopa’s President.

Crack Climbing at Indian Creek

Many people enjoy crack climbing at the Indian Creek located in Utah. At the Indian Creek, climbers are expected to find extremely long cracks that come in various sizes. For these reasons, the Indian Creek is a perfect destination for climbers to practice their crack climbing skills. Many climbers are probably afraid to go to the Indian Creek because crack climbing there has been described as a very painful experience on the body.

No matter what, there are many determined climbers that decide to go to the Indian Creek and on a regular basis new routes are being made, however many of them are not yet published. For example, both Sarah Greneser and Martina Cufrar have recently described their crack climbing experience at the Indian Creek.

Sarah Genser admitted in 2005 that she enjoyed and is addicted to crack climbing because of the challenges crack climbing brings at the Indian Creek. Although she experienced a lot of discomfort more than any other form of climbing, she still loved how she was able to accomplish all of it and in the end she was rewarded with spectacular scenery.

Another climber who noted how much she enjoyed crack climbing is Marina Cufar. Earlier this year, Marina went to Utah’s Indian Creek to get experience in crack climbing and additional climbing skills. Like Sarah, Marina also faced the same pain while crack climbing, but also admitted how each day was a motivation to get better at it, making the crack climbing experience very enjoyable.

Both Sarah’s and Marina’s experience at the Indian Creek teach us how our hard efforts pay off in the end. They both admit that rock climbing is a big challenge, but anyone who is determined to learn it will feel so rewarded in the end.

A Climb to Remember

In early June of 2007 three climbers amazingly summited a very difficult peak, the Arwa Tower on the North East Face. Stephen Siergrist, Thomas Senf and Dennis Burdent acted as a team and were able to find a new route to the tower. They call this new route the Lightning Strike.

According to the team, the Lightning Strike best describes what they went through to get to the route making it the most suitable name. The team was faced with many obstacles and difficulties, but no matter what was thrown at them, they still kept going. The team has even expressed how surprised they are that they made it through and learned how to value teamwork. In the end, once the climbers reached the top, they were received with the perfect scene. They could not believe how perfect the view was at the very top, with absolutely no cold and harsh winds and with a sun that shined so nicely. After seven days of hard work, it was time to finally see something so beautiful.

For many years the Arwa Tower, located in Garhwal Himalaya, was not climbed because permits were not give out, therefore people were not given permission to climb this peak. It was until 7 years ago that the first permits were given out to two climbers, Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad. They actually climbed for about 8 days the North West Face of the mountain. Since 1999, the Arwa Tower has been the climber’s perfect destination.

Choosing the Rope for Your Climb

It's probably a good idea to have reliable rope when rock climbing. Gravity is undefeated. To make sure you have a safe, enjoyable time on the rock, keep a few things in mind when choosing your life line.

There are three basic types of climbing rope: single, twin, and half. Single rope is the most common and makes for the easiest handling. Twin ropes, like the name implies, are employed in pairs and with each clipped together through the same piece of equipment. They're lighter in weight, but provide added safety. Half ropes are between Single and Twin in terms of weight and strength, creating more options in climbing. .

Rope can also be considered Static or Dynamic. Static lines, while very strong and durable, have little give, meaning they should only be used in activities like repelling or spelunking. Dynamic ropes, which stretch and absorb shock, should be used when rock climbing to reduce the shock of falls.

The rope needed will vary greatly depending on the endeavor. If you're doing serious mountain climbing on rock and mixed terrain, opt for a 50-meter, light rope. Average rope weights range from 50 to 80 grams, with typical diameters checking in between 8 and 11 millimeters. Fifty meters used to be the standard length for all climbing, but many are now increasing it to 60 or 70m. Although, when climbers embark on long, grueling Alpine excursions, carrying all that extra weight can prove exhausting. However, on icy alpine terrains, where visibility is increased and the landscape is typically clear of obstructions, lengthier ropes can prove beneficial, allowing for longer pitches and fewer belay points. In either case, dry-treated rope is a must to repel moisture.

The Scarpa Paranoia

Serious climbers need serious shoes. The Scarpa Paranoia is designed with expert climbers in mind, delivering the excellence they crave. Amateurs desiring comfort alone should look elsewhere. Comfort takes a backseat to performance with the Paranoia. It's all about conquering the rock.

The product of intensive scientific study and development, the Paranoia was sculpted from day one with the expert climber in mind. It's the most aggressive shoe on the market, each inch of its finely-tuned form completely dedicated to improving performance in all aspects of the sport, whether bouldering, sport climbing, or scaling an indoor wall.

The Paranoia's unique shape makes it easily recognizable amongst climbing shoes. It has a double-cambered last that hooks dramatically at the toe, giving users more leverage and precision when pulling small crevices or grabbing edges. The prominent arch is reinforced to provide maximum support. The shoe is also extremely soft, allowing feet to flex and create body tension, delivering optimum power to the toe.

Aesthetically, the Paranoia is just as pleasing, employing a subdued wheat and black color scheme. Thick, durable red laces ensure a tight, snug fit. The Paranoia comes in sizes 34.5 to 46, with the average weight being 13.8 ounces.

No matter the conditions, the Paranoia will meet any challenge, excelling in the most rugged, harsh environments. It's the ideal weapon when tackling steep or extreme over-vertical climbs. It's the shoe expert climbers trust, and the shoe rookies aspire to wear. With the Paranoia, there's never a need for second-guessing.

Kids Need Shoes Too!

With rock climbing growing in popularity, and advances in equipment increasing safety, even children are getting in on the fun. But if kids are going to climb, it's essential to make sure they have the right gear. The proper kid-friendly shoe can make or break the climbing experience.

Wearing the wrong shoes can ruin a young climber's day, with foot discomfort leading to poor technique, bad habits, and an overall miserable time. Unlike adult climbing shoes, which should be very tight, children's shoes should put comfort above all else. Select ones slightly bigger than the child's foot, fitting them the same as traditional tennis shoes. The little extra room will not only feel better, it will also allow them to be worn longer before needing to be replaced.

The Boreal Baby Ninja is a perfect shoe for kids. It's a true slipper without laces or loops, so it gives a snug, comfortable fit and will stretch to accommodate growing feet.

Its pointed toe and generous heel also aid in performance, making it the miniature equivalent of the adult version worn by many professional climbers.

The EB Monkey is another solid choice. Aside from a great name, the Monkey has laces, meaning they're easier to get on and off. The laces also allow for a more customized fit.

The La Sportiva Fuego features Velcro straps, making it both fun and easy to wear. The Fuego is also designed to increase sensitivity in the foot, complete with a sticky sole that's ideal for indoor or outdoor climbing.

The Right Shoe

Before tackling the nearest mountain or imposing rock, it's always important to make sure you have the right kind of shoes for your particular brand of climbing.

"All-Around Shoes" are a good place to start for first-time climbers. They have stiffer soles to provide extra support on small footholds, which is important for novice climbers who have yet to develop the necessary musculature in their feet. The rigid nature of the soles also proves beneficial when slipping them into advantageous cracks and crevices. They traditionally feature a symmetrical toe box and laces all the way to the toes for added comfort. They're supposed to fit comfortably tight, with the toes pressing against the front of the shoe or curling slightly.

More experienced climbers will choose "Sport" or "Bouldering" shoes that have softer soles for increased foot sensitivity. They're also designed to direct strength and power to the big toe, built with an asymmetrical toe box and often a down-turned toe or sole. It's all done to increase the climber's ability to traverse thin ledges. These shoes are constructed from synthetic material to reduce stretching and ensure a tight, snug fit for optimal performance. And they should be worn very tight, even to the point of discomfort.

"Trad" shoes are very comparable to the All-Arounds, sharing the stiffer soles and symmetrical toe. Since they're meant to be worn all day, they'll typically boast a padded heel and will be made from leather, which allows for stretching.

When climbing indoors, standard "Gym" shoes, with their stickier soles and soft heels, will do the trick.

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Portaledge

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Portaledge should be essential equipment for any climbers planning to spend their nights suspended from a vertical rock face. When you're hanging hundreds of feet in the air, the last thing you need is an uncomfortable night's rest, but the Metolius Bomb Shelter provides the safety, reliability, and peace of mind all serious climbers crave.

The Bomb Shelter got its name for a reason. Constructed from 1 1/8"aircraft quality 6061-T6 tubing, it's the strongest, most durable portaledge on the market, capable of withstanding the harshest wind and weather conditions. The bed, made from heavy-duty Montana Polyester, is doubled in the middle for support and along the wall-side to protect against abrasions. All tubing ends and joints are reinforced for maximum strength, with all poles and corner fittings anodized to prevent corrosion and wear. The webbing risers are bolstered at the frame and use cam-lock buckles, ensuring effortless operation, and the straps are designed to avoid tangles while attaching to a secure master loop clip.

Perhaps the best aspect of the Metolius Bomb Shelter is its unique center spreading bar which prevents the frame from sagging. A sturdier bed means a more relaxing sleep. The best part is, none of the added comfort costs a moment of wasted time or effort, as assembly takes mere minutes.

The Bomb Shelter single measures 2'6" x 7' and weighs 12 lbs. 12 oz., including the carrying bag. The Bomb Shelter double, which comfortably sleeps two, checks in at 3'9" x 7' and weighs 15 lbs. 1 oz. with bag.

Climbing 101 - Stoves on your Climbs

Sometimes you need to be reminded of even the most obvious of common sense decisions, but to the climbing world: please exercise caution when using a hanging stove on a portaledge! In fact, don’t do it at all unless you have to!

A stove is important to a climb for many reasons, so it’s understandable that it would quickly be translated to a portaledge. However, keep in mind that if something goes wrong (think fireballs) with your stove, you have nowhere to run. You’re stuck there on the portaledge, a million feet of air underneath you and your equipment hanging around you. If your portaledge catches on fire, it’s over and you’ll be climbing that big rock in the sky.

There are ways to keep it safe, though. Rationing is important so that you’re not carrying around a ton of extra fuel. Heat exchangers are beneficial as well, as they increase the amount of fuel able to be released by the canister, which is ideal in really cold situations where the canister is fading. An insulator for the heat exchanger is recommended as well. An insulated heat exchanger will be more efficient in and of itself, and if you knock into it, you don’t run the risk of melting important things like gear and coats. Your stove should only be melting snow for you to drink, so don’t get carried away.

The last important note is where to hang the stove. Ideally, you can clip it to an independent anchor near, but not too near, your portaledge. That way, you can still access it, but you’ve got a little more leeway should something go wrong. Insulate the strap so that it doesn’t melt from being above the stove and you’re good to go!

Your Diet Can Affect Your Climb

Climbing takes a lot out of you, definitely, but what can you do to get it back? One of the biggest concerns physicians have with rock climbers is an unhealthy diet. “Dirtbagging,” and other unhealthy dieting practices are dangerous to the body because without a sufficient amount of protein in your diet, your body won’t heal as quickly and you will not be able to exert yourself to you fullest on a climb because you’ll be so drained of energy.

Protein is important because it contains several of the amino acids our body can’t produce on its own. These amino acids are essential to repairing tissue, your immune system’s continued functions, the smoothness of neurotransmission, and many other important roles in your body. If you’re not getting enough protein in your diet, these functions could begin to suffer, and you definitely need all of them to execute a successful climb.

Since it’s not always obvious which foods you should eat to get a more protein-rich diet, we’re here to help. Meats are obviously on the list; turkey, chicken breast, and several different kinds of fish like salmon, tuna, and halibut are especially healthy choices for protein. Beans, legumes, and other nuts are also excellent for gaining protein in the form of a snack. Likewise, peanut butter is full of complete proteins essential for your body. Eggs and low-fat cheeses are easy for breakfast items. While you’re on a climb, though, nothing beats a drink with protein powder in it. You can hydrate yourself and gain back some of your essential nutrients while not missing a beat during your climb.

Josune Bereziartu: Renowned Woman Climber

If there is one woman in the business of rock climbing worth mentioning, it’s Josune Bereziartu. There is no other woman out there who has climbed the grades as difficult as she has and with such skill, precision, and beauty.

Bereziartu was born in the Basque region of Spain in January of 1972. Her interest in rock climbing came when she was sixteen in the form of a television documentary about the sport. She worked hard, trained hard, and now her rock climbing career is constantly compared to her male counterparts, not other female climbers. Her claim to fame came in 1998 when she became the first female climber to climb an 8c route. Later, she became the first female climber to tackle a grade 9a climb, which netted her a Golden Pithon Award.

Bereziartu was never the girly girl her parents wanted her to be, but she has more than made up for it in terms of renown. Her mother always wanted her to be a stereotypical girl, but she wouldn’t have any of it. The Saturday she took her first climbing trip was a magical day that she will never forget.

She might be intense, but no one goes it alone. Her climbing partner, Rikar Otegi, has been there almost every step of the way. Very recently, however, he was hit by a rock thrown from the cliff by a pair of inexperienced climbers that caused a severe injury to his back and shoulder. In her blog, Bereziartu talks about how he is recovering and how much she hopes he’ll be one hundred percent better soon.

Scott Cory - Climbing Record Breaker

Scott Cory knows how to make it up The Nose in one day. He’s also good with the Half Dome and Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. He’s been sponsored by North Face and has taken first in countless national, regional, and international competitions. Did I mention he’s only 17?

Cory started climbing when he was seven, and immediately became a Big Deal. By eight, he was climbing in Yosemite Valley, taking fifth in his first National Championships, and being allowed a place in the USA Climbing Team. He was the youngest member ever to earn that honor, but it wasn’t enough. He later got into bouldering and took a spot on the USA Climbing Youth Bouldering Team in 2006.

Perhaps what he is best known for, however, is his two record-breaking climbs: The Nose and Half Dome. In 2001 and 2003, respectively, he made history by being the youngest person ever to climb each in under a day. The Nose was especially important, as he climbed it in front of a crowd of people in October, right after September 11th, to raise money for the victims and families of that tragic day.

These days, Cory has gotten more and more into bouldering, and this year climbed a climb 5.13d/5.14a. He continues to work for charities and holds auctions every now and then to raise money and donate gear for a good cause. Even though he leads a high-profile life, he maintains his good grades and still hangs out with his friends like any other 17-year-old.

Gear Review - LaSportiva Testarossa

The shoe really does make the climber, and not just any shoe will do. Climbers and boulderers alike need support, versatility, and durability more than anything else, and they can find it all in the LaSportiva Testarossa.

Better than the Dragons, better than the FiveTen, better than the Anasazis, the Testarossa shoe is perfect for bouldering and sport climbing. They fit so tight, it’s like a “second skin,” and are reported to never move, not even the tiniest fraction of an inch. They do stretch about a half size, but if you know anything about buying climbing shoes, you’ll know that when they do stretch, it’s just a better fit when your foot is inside the shoe. Getting it on is still the hard part.

The Testarossa is a lace-up design, far superior to the Velcro designs. It has a sling shot heel that forces all your weight into the toe of the shoe, which is a power toe. The power toe is a down-turned platform that allows your feet to move with such grace and precision that you have no problems hooking into a crevice. That, combined with the sling shot heel ensures that you will never blow out your heel in a climb. It’s a powerful and safe shoe that allows no rival to even come close to being as comfortable or technologically advanced.

The only thing that might take some getting used to with the Testarossa is that since they are so tight to start out with, they do take a lot of patience and care when you’re breaking them in. Just get them, wear them, and break them in as best as you can, and soon you’ll be enjoying the best bouldering shoe on the market today.

You're Never Too Old to Start Climbing!

Just as we have talked about how you’re never too young to start climbing, you’re really never too old either. Dick and Carole Laingor have proved this fact time and time again, as they are 65 and 69, respectively, and as a couple have joined the elite club of people who have climbed all of Colorado’s 14ers. 14ers are mountains that are over 14,000 vertical feet, and there are 54 of them in the state—thus, this was no easy task for the aging couple.

There are only 1,147 people in the world who have accomplished what the Laingors accomplished, and the couple didn’t even start their mission to the tops until Carole was 56 and Dick was 52. Regardless, they have told stories of passing groups of young people at resting stops who were contemplating heading back down and hearing them say things like “If they can do it, we can do it.” Inadvertent inspiration maybe, but the couple doesn’t mind. They reached their goal in 2001 by reaching the summit of El Diente Peak, seven years after their conquest began, and they haven’t stopped since then. They’ve revisited many of the 14ers, totaling 92 summit climbs in all.

The couple swears by climbing as a means of relationship building. They have been married for 15 years, and both will swear that they couldn’t have accomplished this without the help of the other. Carole describes herself as the risk-taker, while Dick is the cautious one. Together, they make a fantastic climbing team and a very happy couple.

Climb4Life: Rock Climbing for a Cause

The HERA Foundation and Paradox Sports are teaming up in June to do an amazing thing: promote rock climbing, benefit disabled veterans, and benefit ovarian cancer research all at the same time. The first ever Front Range HERA Foundation Climb4Life event is set to take place Friday, June 15th through June 17th in the canyons between Boulder and Denver, Colorado. Climb4Life is in its sixth year in Salt Lake City, and has sold out every single year so far.

The event is designed to promote the idea that even the disabled can still be active in sports, even something so taxing as rock climbing. The participating veterans will be climbing to raise money for the HERA Foundation, an organization dedicated to promoting awareness and research for ovarian cancer and empowering women to take action in their reproductive health. Meanwhile, Paradox Sports exists to remind amputees and the disabled alike of their humanity and ability to keep doing the sports that they love. It’s a perfect partnership for two organizations, even though they might seem very different.

Seasoned climbers and the inexperienced are all welcome, and special pre-climb clinics are available to prepare participants for the event. The registration is only $50, which includes perks like massages, meals, and even a party on that Friday. There is a raffle for climbing gear for those who raise more than $500, and the top three fundraisers will win “supah prizes.” Climb4Life is win-win for everyone involved, and a great chance to help women with ovarian cancer and disabled veterans alike.

Rock Climbing Builds Character and Is Great for Kids!

What was once a dangerous sport only for the most adventurous of adults has evolved into so much more. Rock climbing has become a great way to get kids out from in front of the television for their summer breaks and into the gyms for a truly character-building experience. The Inclimb Rock Gym in central Oregon, for example, has taken it upon itself to provide children as young as eight with an opportunity to develop themselves intrinsically and extrinsically.

Inclimb Rock Gym offers two summer camps to the youth of Oregon, one beginning program and one advanced program. The five-hour, five-day sessions are for beginners, with six sessions scheduled for this summer. The advanced sessions last for three days and currently there are only four sessions scheduled, however there is flexibility for more depending on demand. The sessions are limited to ten campers, with a minimum of five to keep the session scheduled. The sessions are kept small so that the two instructors won’t be overloaded, and will be able to provide more focused guidance for their campers.

The program, now in its 11th year, has seen many kids come through with no experience whatsoever and go on to become some of the most talented youth climbers in America. The counselors get to see the children grow up year by year, and still get news every now and then on how their former pupils are doing now that they’re advanced climbers. Kids entered into the program gain a knowledge and understanding of not only the techniques of rock climbing, but also of their own capabilities and self-worth.